The trip from Salzburg to Vienna takes a little over three hours to drive. That’s if you drive straight through. But on this trip we had a special detour – Melk Abbey. It is a spectacular Benedictine abbey built between 1702 and 1736 and is still an active community today. The reason for our pitstop was its library, renowned for its extensive manuscript collection, including many written by Mozart. We were treated to a tour of the ancient artifacts its houses and all I can say is that if you’re missing some gold, I think I know where it is. The view of the Danube from its tower and the immense garden is reason enough to visit. That we got to see the local children released from its school was just an added bonus. In 1938, the school and a large part of the abbey were confiscated by Hitler. The school was returned to the abbey after the war and now serves nearly 900 pupils. I loved the juxtaposition of collections from the Middle Ages and screaming school kids with backpacks and ear buds.
The Kiss
Later that day we arrived in Vienna, with just enough time to unpack and head off to dinner. Again, our tour director took us to a local pub, Gasthaus Reinhaler, which I think means “lots of food” in German. Holy smokes, these people eat a lot! I stumbled into bed in a food coma. The good news is the next day brought lots of opportunity for walking it off. We had a city guide, Marcus, who was a native and very proud Viennese. We did a “drive by” of the Ringstrasse (Ring Road) passing by the Parliament Building, the State Opera House, and Hofburg Palace. Of course, because this was a Mozart tour we visited the only surviving Mozart apartment, where he penned some of his most famous works, including The Marriage of Figaro. But the highlight for me was our afternoon at Belvedere Palace, home to the world’s largest collection of art by Gustav Klimt, including “The Kiss”. I have loved that painting since I first saw it, and to stand in front of it was the thrill of a lifetime. I could write a whole blog about Belvedere Palace, Maria Theresa (the ruler of the Hapsburg Empire and the only woman to hold the position in her own right), and Empress Elizabeth (“Sisi”) who was the Princess Di of her time. Needless to say I found Austrian history fascinating!
Schoenbrun Palace
That afternoon we had free time in downtown Vienna, which is a wonderful combination of beautiful architecture and modern luxury. Once again, I found myself in the local Hotel Sacher having their torte. I’m not sure you can eat enough of it – but I tried. I walked and shopped the main street before loading onto the bus to return to our hotel. That evening a few of us met at the restaurant for a beer. We swore we were too full to order dinner, but soon a pizza appeared and we devoured it. The following day we visited Schoenbrun Palace and Gardens. Again, the splendor of the rooms and the artifacts were breathtaking. I walked the gardens for an hour, marveling at the installations, the orange grove and the maze. Later in the afternoon, as I was walking the streets downtown, I found a yarn store and bought a skein of cashmere as a remembrance of my wonderful time in what is now my favorite city.
My Illegal Photo
That night was our last in Vienna, but we saved the best for last. We were treated to a Mozart concert in the Musikverein. If you have ever watched “New Years in Vienna” on PBS, you’ve seen this famous music hall. The conductor was animated and amusing; I wish I could have filmed him. As it was, I took the photo here just before a man walked down the aisle holding a rather large sign saying “NO PHOTOS”. Oops. Hopefully I am now out of reach of the Viennese police. They played a “biggest hits” concert of Mozart’s works, and two guest singers from the Vienna Opera sang of arias from “The Magic Flute” and “The Marriage of Figaro”. It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening and, in a city full of “lifetime experiences” it was the perfect nightcap.
I have to admit, when I saw that the trip included Salzburg I did not think of Mozart. Instead, I conjured up images of Julie Andrews frolicking her way through The Sound of Music. So I was excited to follow in her footsteps, and frankly, was not above bursting into song. Alas, the only bad weather we encountered on the whole trip was our first day in Salzburg. It poured rain almost the entire day. Still, our guide took us to many of the spots where the movie was filmed, including the beautiful Mirabell Gardens. She told us that the movie was three months behind schedule because of the bad weather in Salzburg. I believed her.
Salzburg Cathedral
The Sacher Torte
We toured the Old Town, St. Peter’s Abbey, the magnificent Salzburg Cathedral, and then the famous building where Mozart was born, the Geburtshaus. Once the tour was over, I decided to seek shelter from the rain and went to the Hotel Sacher for lunch. Julie Andrews stayed there when filming the movie, so I was still hoping to pick up on some of her vibe. And let’s face it, for a cake lover like me, going to the home of the Sacher Torte is almost a requirement. I was not disappointed. The dining room is elegant and quiet. I ordered the pumpkin soup only because I thought I should eat something nourishing before delving into cake. I was seated next to a family that brought not one, but two, terriers into the dining room. I later found out that dogs in general are allowed most everywhere because the Austrians take great pride in having well-trained dogs. It was a lovely way to spend an hour, and I enjoyed a little alone time before rejoining the group.
That night the group went to a student concert at a local church. I had read about it before we embarked on the trip and it didn’t get a glowing review. So, I opted to stay at the hotel, where I ate a delicious dinner in their intimate dining room. That night, I finally got some much-needed sleep. I think it was due to the Sacher Torte at lunch and the Agustiner beer at dinner.
Atop Hohensalzburg Fortress
The next day dawned with cloudy skies but no rain so we were off for more touring. We spent a great deal of time at the home where the Mozart’s lived for the majority of their time in Salzburg. Mozart’s father was the original stage dad, and it was fascinating to hear about how he used his son’s genius from a young age to advance the family’s position in society. Kris Kardashian could learn a thing or two from him. Two of the pianos Mozart used to compose his works are still on display, along with some of the family’s furniture and personal belongings.
The view from the Fortress
Next, we hopped on the funicular for a ride up to the Hohensalzburg Fortress. The original fortress was built in 1077, and was expanded several times, most notably during the Thirty Years War. Finally, it was abandoned as a military outpost in 1861 and turned into a tourist site in 1892. It is a spectacular compound and is all the more amazing when you think about how hard it was to build such structures without modern equipment and having to haul everything up to its highest point at 1660 feet.
St Peter Stiftskeller
That night we were treated to a Mozart concert and dinner at St. Peter Stiftskeller, which claims to be the oldest restaurant in Europe. It is a grand hall and today hosts dinners that feature music and opera composed by Mozart between each course. It was a magical evening and the perfect way to conclude our time in Salzburg.
A couple of years ago I started taking classes through the ASU Osher Lifelong Learners program. It’s a wonderful way to learn about a subject without the specter of tests and grades. In January as I was perusing the Spring catalog, I noticed that they also offer travel programs. Long story short, I signed up for a trip to Munich, Salzburg, Vienna and Prague to study the life of Mozart. I’m really not a classical music aficionado, but those are cities I have always wanted to visit so I figured I could go and learn something along the way. I returned from the trip last week and it truly was a magnificent experience. I learned a lot about music, Mozart, and myself. This week I’ll write about Munich and Salzburg, next week about Vienna and Prague.
Munich
Me with an Augustiner
There were 14 people on the tour, eight leaving from Phoenix and the others coming from their summer locations. Those of us from Phoenix were the first to arrive – at 6:30 am! It was a very long and sleepless flight. Take my word for it – the Delta One “lie flat” experience is like lying in a narrow MRI tube, with the added attraction of turbulence that makes it seem you are sleeping in a Vitamix. Unfortunately, we could not check in to our hotel until three. Everything I read about jet lag suggests that sunshine and movement are key to overcoming it, so I ventured off with three other members of the group to walk the neighborhood. Much like London, there are numerous enclaves of homes and businesses centered around community parks. We sought out a local pub, ate lunch, walked some more, and finally dragged ourselves back to the hotel around two, in hopes they would let us in early. No luck. But by then the other six members of the group had arrived so we all sat in the bar and got to know one another. Even at our crankiest, we were a congenial group. Once in our rooms we had time for a quick shower before we gathered for a meeting and then on to dinner. Our tour director for the trip, Joselyn, was a British woman who has lived in Munich for 15 years. She took us to one of her favorite haunts for dinner, Tattenbach pub. We were treated to a typical German meal – sausage, sourcrout, potatoes, and apple strudel. We also drank Augustiner beer, which we learned donates a great deal of their profits to restoring art and cultural icons in Europe. I’ve never felt so virtuous drinking a beer.
The Residenz dining hall
The Glockenspiel
The next day we spent the morning with a guide touring the highlights of the city. Munich was actually an add-on to the trip, since we all had to fly into the city as our starting point, so we only had one day to see the sights. But we covered a lot of territory: The Englischer Garten, the bohemian art district, and the Residenz, a museum that housed the Wittelsbach dukes of Bavaria. As a WWII buff, I knew that Munich had been the heart of the Nazi movement, and I wondered if the guide would touch on that. She did. She pointed out all of the former Hitler offices and museums and explained how they have been re-purposed. For example, Hitler hated jazz, so his concert hall is now the home of jazz music in Munich. He also hated contemporary art, so the magnificent building that held his art collection is now the Contemporary Art Museum. In this way, she said, rather than destroying beautiful buildings, they have simply taken away their power. She told us that before they graduate, every student must visit one of the concentration camps, and any citizen who denies the Holocaust is arrested. We ended the tour with a visit to the medieval heart of Munich, the Marien Platz, where we got to see the famous Glockenspiel clock.
MySchnitzel
Next, it was off to lunch at a nearby restaurant. And here is where I want to address the criticism we often hear about portion sizes in America. I suggest that anyone who thinks we “eat big” needs to spend some time in Germany. Not only is the food heavy, but the servings are huge. One of my fellow travelers ordered the pig’s knuckle and it looked like a large beehive had landed on his plate. My order of schnitzel could have fed an army, assuming they were hungry. The good news is that, at least in our case, we didn’t need any dinner. Several of us gathered in the lounge back at the hotel where we shared some fruit, cheese and wine. And a lot of laughs. It was the perfect ending to our stay in Munich.
Well, this is a switch, Suzanne is traveling the world (actually she just returned home safely on Sunday) and I’m here writing another blog. I could tell you about the exciting places she has been, but I assume that’s what she’s going to do next week. You’ll love it! As for me, I have nothing to write about, although . . .
I was on a ‘boys golf trip’ to Las Vegas last week, (and in spite of what goes on in Vegas stays in Vegas, I’ll reluctantly tell you about it.) Believe me, my golf was nothing to write home, or anywhere else, about. In fact, concerning money lost, if you count the green fees, golf bets and the number of balls lost, I could have saved money if I’d just stayed at the casino and gambled all day.
As I did finally discover a new ‘system’ for making money on the craps table – don’t play!
Anyone who has read my blogs before knows I love South Point Hotel and Casino, which has 11 restaurants and I have eaten in all of them except the Steak ‘n Shake – basically a hamburger joint. So, it was time to check that one off my list, as the boys had a very nutritious dinner of hamburger and milk shakes. Yes, I went off my diet!
OK, I was never on a diet.
We had our last supper at the Sunset Station Hotel and Casino – we had eaten there every year of the ‘boys trip’ for the last three years. Two years ago, we all claimed that we had the best Ribeye steak of our lives. We went back last year and had the Ribeye steak again and judged it as ‘good, but maybe not the best steak ever. We went back again this year, and the steak was somewhere between the best steak ever and last year’s steak. Still very good.
The Sunset Station is one of 22 hotels and casinos owned by the Fertitta family, five Station casinos as well as Red Rock Casino and Resort, Green Valley Ranch Resort and Durango Casino. They clearly know where their next meal is coming from.
The Fertitta family made a nice investment when they bought the UFC (Ultimate Fighting Championship) in 2001 for $2 million and sold it in 2016 for $4 billion!
But we didn’t need anywhere near that kind of money to enjoy the Bronx Wanderers at the South Point Casino and Hotel – me for the seventh time! Tickets for this fabulous show are still only $45. By far, the best value in Vegas!
While we were there, South Point was hosting the 50th Annual Indian National Finals Rodeo – so there were a lot of cowboys and Indians roaming through the casino last week – they seemed to be getting along now.
Hopefully next week we’ll hear all about Suzanne’s fabulous trip.
October is an unusual month. I love it, as football is in full swing, the World Series takes place, which is the only time I have patience enough to watch baseball; hocky is underway and basketball starts this month, The fall weather is usually perfect – summer heat is gone and the winter chill has not yet arrived. This year, however, the summer heat decided not to go, as we here in Southern California, are experiencing near-100-degree weather . . . in OCTOBER! But I digress – for all it’s good attributes, October seems to have gotten the short end of the stick in many regards.
Here is an imagined conversation between October and the Calendar Guy . . .
Oct: “Hey, I’m the eighth month, remember ‘oct’ means eight, then you push me back a couple of months? What’s the deal?”
Calendar Guy: “Yes, you were eighth in the old Roman calendar, but they added two months, so you got pushed back.”
Oct: “What do you mean ‘they added two months’, did the earth slow down on it journey around the sun?”
Calendar Guy: “No, originally the first 60 or so days of the calendar weren’t counted because it was the rainy season, bad weather, and nothing happened during that time, so they just didn’t count it. But eventually, they did add January and February, thus pushing you back two months. Sorry.”
Oct: “So why did I get screwed on the holidays?”
Calendar Guy: What do you mean?
Oct: The other months have Christmas, New Years, Valentine’s Day, Independence Day, St. Patrick’s Day, Memorial Day, Thanksgiving, just to name a few. You gave me a day where everyone dresses up in stupid or scary costumes and goes from house to house begging for candy. I feel like the red-headed step-child!”
Calendar Guy: “I gave you Columbus Day?”
Oct: “Yeah, thanks for that! You gave me a day to celebrate a guy who did not discover America because millions of Indigenous people already lived there, and other Europeans had visited centuries earlier. AND he actually landed on islands in the Bahamas and other islands in the Caribbean, mistakenly believing until his death, that he had reached the East Indies and Asia. Aside from being cruel, he was stupid!
Calendar Guy: But . . .
Oct: “No buts, here’s a guy that forced the indigenous people into slavery. And in fact, eliminated many of them through warfare, mistreatment, and the introduction of fatal European diseases. AND, when he went back to Spain, he was arrested by Spanish authorities for the way he treated people! And you gave me Columbus Day to celebrate this jerk?!!!”
Calendar Guy: “Well, I later gave you ‘Indigenous People Day’ too, so people can celebrate either holiday.”
Oct: “Thanks a lot! Indigenous People Day didn’t even become a national holiday until 2022! Many people today don’t even know what an indigenous person is! OK, forget the holidays, what about Octoberfest?”
Calendar Guy: “What about it?”
Oct: “Octoberfest ends on the first Sunday of October, so I could get 7 days, or I could get one day!! September always gets over two weeks. Shouldn’t Octoberfest mostly be in October?”
Calendar Guy: “The weather is better in September.”
Oct: “You don’t need good weather to drink German beer!”
Calendar Guy: “You should just be grateful for what you have, ‘International Coffee Day’ and ‘National Pumpkin Spice Day’.”
Back in the dark ages when I was in my 20’s, a girlfriend and I took a ski trip up to Lake Tahoe. We had planned on a fun-filled weekend. What we didn’t plan for was running out of gas. In her hurry to get us out of town, she had forgotten to fill up her tank. So, just east of Auburn on Highway 80 we sputtered to a stop. It was still twilight and as we stood by the car wondering what to do, a nice truck driver pulled up and offered to take us to the next gas station. We were so grateful and relieved that we hopped in the cab without a second thought. Looking back on it, we were very foolish (in more ways than one) and also very lucky. But the thing is, back then, most truck drivers were employees of a company. Which means they were in a union, had good benefits, and limits on how many hours a day they could drive. They were considered the best drivers on the road. Today, an increasing number of truck drivers are independent contractors and are paid by the job. The faster they deliver, the more jobs they can complete, and thus, earn more money. For those of us who have driven on major freeways the past decade or so, we have seen an increase in unsafe truck drivers. It’s almost like they’ve made a sport of terrorizing passenger cars. I’ve been tailgated, forced to change lanes, and had to slam on the brakes when a maniac truck driver is on a mission not only to deliver his goods, but to run down anyone who gets in his way.
So it was with some interest that I saw a segment on a news program the other day about driverless trucks. In May 2025, Aurora launched regular commercial driverless deliveries between Dallas and Houston, using heavy-duty trucks without a human driver behind the wheel. Now there are a handful of competitors who are also testing the concept. When you think about it, long-haul routes involve thousands of relatively predictable highway miles. There are no crowded city streets or parallel parking required. The Aurora model uses a hub-to-hub model: people handle loading, local streets and customer delivery, while an automated truck covers the long middle section on the highways. The business case is pretty compelling. For corporations with truckers on the payroll the current system is constrained by driver schedules and hours-of-service rules. A driverless vehicle could spend more time moving, helping carriers use expensive equipment more efficiently and making delivery times more predictable. Automation may also add capacity on routes that are difficult to staff. For shippers, that could mean fewer disruptions and more consistent service; for consumers, it could eventually help stabilize the cost and availability of goods.
Of course, like the ongoing discussion about AI taking over jobs, there is the question of how driverless trucks might impact employees. But human workers will still be needed for first- and last-mile driving, inspections, maintenance, loading, and customer interaction. New roles are also emerging in fleet supervision, remote assistance and autonomous-vehicle service. Over time, some long-haul positions may shrink or change, but new jobs will be created. All of this doesn’t solve the problem of the independent contractors, paid by the job, who cause the majority of traffic accidents, but at least it’s a start.
There’s still a lot to figure out before we see wide-spread use of driverless trucks. But recent studies comparing the driverless Waymo cars with human drivers in Phoenix showed that Waymo has 62% fewer injury crashes than humans. Which, in part, tells you just how bad the drivers are here. But that’s a subject for another day. We can only hope that those same positive results are possible with trucks. In the meantime, I’m having my car fitted with bubble wrap next time I take to the highway.
Like so many people these days, I’m in a never-ending quest to avoid watching much news. Since I subscribe to five streaming services, I can always find something that produces less stomach acid. And sometimes, I find something truly worth watching. Such was the case when I watched an ESPN+ program on the Savannah Bananas. They opened the ESPY’s show this year, but in case you haven’t heard of them, let’s just say they are the Harlem Globetrotters of baseball – a little sport and a lot of entertainment. The background of the team – and its owners – is actually one of the more heart-warming stories in sports. And God knows I could use that since I’m flailing in both of my NFL pools (really, Packers? You couldn’t beat the Falcons???). In any event, in the off chance that you could also use a feel-good story this morning I present a bit about the Savannah Bananas.
In October of 2015, the team arrived in Savannah as a college summer team with a goal in mind: make baseball fun. That’s a big enough task, but they also wanted to bring fans back to Savannah’s historic Grayson Stadium. The stadium had been home to a minor league team, the Savannah Sand Gnats, for 90 years. The team’s owners wanted Savannah to build a new, more modern, stadium. In September 2015, when the city denied their request, the Sand Gnats packed up their sand and moved to Charlston. You would think the good people of Savannah would be happy to get rid of Sand Gnats and welcome a college summer team, but that was not the case.
In the first few months, they sold only a handful of tickets. By January of 2016, just months before their first game, the team’s finances were in the red. The owners, Jesse and Emily Cole, were forced to sell their home to keep the team and their dream going. But on February 25, 2016, they announced a name change to the “Savannah Bananas”, and everything changed. The announcement created massive attention locally and nationally, covered by CBS, NBC, and Sports Illustrated. They were even featured as SportsCenter’s “Logo of the Year”. They played in the Coastal Plain League, a summer collegiate league, for seven seasons. They won three Petitt Cup Championships during their collegiate team reign and had over 35 players drafted into MLB across the seven years of play.
Just your average base hit
But in 2022, the Bananas announced that they were leaving the Coastal Plain League to play Banana Ball year-round. No one had heard of Banana Ball. But they soon would. Banana Ball was born out of the idea and goal of making baseball more fast-paced, entertaining, and fun. And it certainly met the goal! Every game includes singing, dancing and engaging with the crowd. Their walk-ups are legendary. Bananas may be escorted to the plate by a musical star, make a dramatic entrance drenched in rain or, my favorite, sing a Broadway hit. When they score a run they have special celebrations, from running through the crowd to performing fully choreographed dances. And the Bananas can also boast that they have the World’s Tallest Hitter and Pitcher with Dakota “Stilts” Albritton, who stands 10 feet tall. Recently Derek Klena, a former baseball star at UCLA and Broadway Tony nominee, joined the club. So, they have street cred, to say the least.
The Man-Nana’s
But it’s not just the players who entertain. Jesse Cole wears a yellow tuxedo and bowler hat at every game. He is literally the ring master of the Banana circus. They have the Banana Nanas (a senior citizen dance team), the Man-Nana’s, (their Dad Bod Cheerleading Squad), and the Banana Splitz (a youth dance team). Their umpire is the world’s only Dancing Umpire, who will bust out the robot, hit the quan, or twerk it out on any (and every) strike three call. The coach on first base is a breakdancer.
The Cole family
But there’s more to life than baseball and Jesse and Emily Cole put their fame to good purpose. In 2020, while in lockdown with their one‑year‑old son Maverick, they decided to get licensed as foster parents after seeing how many children were struggling without school and mentors. They were inspired by the idea of providing a supportive home until children could be reunified with their biological families or adopted, so they started a non-profit that promotes foster care. The name of their organization? Bananas Foster, of course. They currently have adopted two girls who they fostered and work tirelessly to spread the word about the benefits of becoming a foster family.
So, if you find yourself searching for something entertaining to watch on TV, I highly suggest watching a Banana Ball game. You might even be inspired to do a little breakdancing in your living room!
I recently had the pleasure of attending a presentation at the Nixon Library in Yorba Linda, given by Ray “Cash” Care, a former Navy Seal.
I don’t have the writing ability to adequately express my admiration and gratitude to Navy Seals. Of course, I don’t have the writing ability to do a lot of things, but when it comes to Navy Seals – they have my full attention and utmost respect.
Let’s start with the name. It comes from SE A L – SEa, Air, Land as they are trained to fight in all three of these major environments. But if you thought the name came because they are like the unique marine mammals, well, that could be true too.
Seals, the marine mammals, can drive to extreme depths (nearly 8,000 feet), they can track prey with ultra-sensitive whiskers which allow them to hunt at night, and some can hold their breath for two hours!
The name is fitting for arguably the toughest combat team in the world.
So let’s talk about the Navy Seals.
First of all, becoming a Navy SEAL is very tough. Here’s the basic training:
It is called BUDS (Basic Underwater Demolition/SE A L) and it has three phases:
BUDS training – just ring the bell and you can go home
Basic Conditioning – 8 weeks of focus on physical conditioning, water competency and teamwork. This includes what is called ‘Hell Week’ where candidates get a total of about four hours of sleep – THAT’S FOR THE WHOLE WEEK!
Dive Phase – 8 weeks of combat diving, underwater navigation and open and closed-circuit dives
Land Warfare – 9 weeks of small unit tactics, land navigation, marksmanship, rappelling and explosives
The dropout rate for BUDS is around 80-85%!
When our speaker, Ray was asked what the toughest part of the training was for him, he said that, oddly enough, he was not a very good swimmer, but he had to hold his breath and swim underwater for 75 yards!
He spent eight years as a Navy Seal and then twelve years in the CIA. He said he got to visit every ‘hell hole’ in the world during those years.
Like most of the Navy Seals I’ve met, he is not a big, bruiser of a man; he’s 5’7” and weighs about 165 pounds. What you don’t see when you look at him is his willpower, his burning desire to succeed at whatever he does, his never give up attitude and his ability to consistently perform at a high level.
Sept. 11, 2001
Ray now does motivational speaking. His presentation at the Nixon Library was just prior to the 25th anniversary of 9/11. And he talked about that for a bit, but interestingly enough, the focus of the presentation was on 9/12.
Yes, 9/12. He said that that was a time when he saw the nation most united as the embodiment of the resilient American spirit where people put aside differences, flew their flags, and stood united. He contrasted that with today’s societal divisions that we see growing worse every day.
I’ll leave you with a couple of Navy SEAL sayings:
“The only easy day was yesterday,” representing a mindset of continuous growth and rising standards
“Get comfortable being uncomfortable,” meaning growth happens outside your comfort zone
Note: I am publishing this post from 2016 in honor of the 25th anniversary of 9/11.
There is a quietness about the September 11th Memorial and Museum that starts before you walk through its doors. As we queued at the entrance, we were all lost in thought. Trepidation is etched on everyone’s face – do we really want to re-live that horrible day? And yet we all file in, bracing ourselves for what we know will be a difficult and emotional visit. The museum offers three options for viewing the exhibits; we chose a guided tour led by one of the volunteers. Our guide was a young man from New Jersey who lost neighbors in the terrorist attack. For him, this museum is personal. He told us that if we saw a guide wearing a tan vest, that person is a family member of a victim. Some of them come every day as a way to work through their grief and talk about their loved one. I reflected that we are fortunate in our generation to be guided by such people; future generations will experience it from a more distant perspective.
Our guide started the tour at the bottom of the museum, in Foundation Hall, where the famous “slurry wall” stands. When the Trade Center was built in the mid-1960’s, the slurry wall held back the Hudson River, which lapped at the side of the building. After the attack on 9/11, when the site was being excavated, the workers were astounded to find that the slurry wall had survived. Daniel Libeskind, the architect who led the redevelopment of the site, pushed to keep a portion of the slurry wall in place. He proclaimed that it was a testament to the determination and resilience of a nation; a document “as eloquent as the Constitution itself”.
Also in Foundation Hall is the “Last Column,” a 36-foot girder that was the last to be removed from the site, marking the end of the recovery effort. During the excavation it quickly became a makeshift memorial, plastered with Mass cards, rosary beads, flags, photos of missing innocents, and patches from fire and police units. When it was finally cut down, it was laid on a flatbed truck, draped in black, with an American flag over it, and escorted by first responder honor guards to a place of safekeeping. It was brought back to Foundation Hall and erected as a physical reminder of our resilience and hope.
There are many displays that feature recovered portions of the buildings – bent beams, the only remaining glass window and the “Survivor’s Staircase”, used by many to escape the burning towers. But I suspect that the main reason most of us come to the museum is to pay tribute to the people who were lost that day. After seeing massive beams bent and misshapen by the impact of planes and the heat of the fires, it gives new perspective to what the people trapped in those structures experienced. I recall one of the shell-shocked firemen who survived the collapse of the towers saying, “How bad must it have been up there that people thought jumping out of a window from the 100th floor was the better alternative?”
One particularly poignant display is of the motorcycle that belonged to Gerard Baptiste, a firefighter with Ladder 9 in Lower Manhattan. Two weeks before 9/11 he bought a broken-down 1979 Honda motorcycle off the street for $100. It wouldn’t start so he had to roll it to the firehouse. The guys ribbed him endlessly about buying a worthless piece of junk. Baptiste died at the Trade Center and shortly afterward, the surviving members of his firehouse decided to restore the bike in his honor. With the help of Honda, some motorcycle shops and private donors, they were able to transform it into what is now known as “The Dream Bike”. The bike was auctioned, with proceeds donated to the education fund for the children of firefighters from Ladder 9 who were lost on 9/11. The winning raffle ticket, selected by Baptiste’s mother, went to a woman from California who donated the bike to the museum so everyone would know its story.
There is a room called “The Wall of Faces” filled with pictures of the victims. It is hard see their smiling faces, knowing that their lives would end so tragically. They are the faces of people who, on a gloriously sunny Tuesday morning, kissed a loved one good-bye, walked out their front door, and were never seen again. Down the hall from the “Wall of Faces” is an alcove, a small space with black walls and four benches. On each of the four walls is a projection of video remembrances of the victims. Each person who died is remembered with a picture and a bit of personal background information. For most of them there is also an audio remembrance from a family member or friend.
I sat in the video room for a while, as the images and voices streamed past. It was heartbreaking to hear a young woman talk about how much her children miss their dad, and a father describe how proud he was of his lost son. One woman remembered her husband through the story of a Thanksgiving dinner when they got into a spat because the gravy was missing from the dinner table. They argued and both stalked off to the kitchen. She said they imagined that all of the relatives thought they were in there fighting but, in fact, they were kissing. She said “that’s just who we were”. Some voices were very emotional as they described their loved one, some sounded wistful, and others like the woman with the gravy story, chose to remember a lighter moment. No matter the emotion, the remembrances brought the victims back to life and made the violent nature of their death all the more jarring.
I should note that there is a small portion of the museum that describes the rise of Al Qaeda and the planning of the 9/11 attacks. There are photos of Osama bin Laden and the 19 hijackers, along with a video description of how they carried out their plot. The photos of the hijackers are placed very low on the wall, much below eye level, so you can easily walk past them without having to look at their faces. After what I had seen prior to that exhibit, my instinct was to give those pictures a swift kick. I questioned why we had to acknowledge them at all in a place of reverence and dedication. But on further reflection, I realized what the museum designers intended – future generations will not recall the events of 9/11 from personal experience, they will need to learn about it from history books and places like the September 11th museum. So the “who”, “why” and “how” need to be included to present a complete picture.
We finished our tour of the museum and went outside to visit the memorial plaza and the two reflecting pools, where the names of the victims are carved into the steel that surrounds them. The pools are built on the former foundations of the two towers and are symbolic of the sadness one feels there. One person has described the water cascading over the four sides of the pools as the endless tears shed over the victims. Perhaps the most touching sight I saw all day were the single white roses stuck sporadically into the carvings of names. I had assumed that family members laid those flowers on the names of their loved ones. But in fact, each morning the staff of the museum places a white rose on the name of any victim who would have celebrated a birthday that day. I found that to be such an elegant gesture and thoughtful beyond words.
We left the museum and went for a very long walk back to our hotel, reflecting on the gamut of emotions we experienced on the tour. I picked up a copy of USA Today in the lobby; the front-page headline blared “US Military Families to Evacuate Turkey” due to possible attacks. Sadly, the beat goes on. But thankfully, so do we. The new One World Trade Center, also known as the Freedom Tower, is now complete and other buildings are going up where once the ground was but a scar. Would I recommend going to the 9/11 Museum? I guess that depends on your perspective. One of the guest services workers at our hotel said he couldn’t go – that it is still too soon. For me, it was well worth the visit; it is a place where we can reflect, mourn and vow to move forward.
This week, as we approach the 25th anniversary of 9/11, I am posting the memorial I wrote on the 10-year anniversary, with updates on a surreal encounter and a promise kept.
Melissa Harrington Hughes died at the World Trade Center on September 11, 2001. She didn’t work there; she was on a business trip for her San Francisco-based technology firm. She was an extremely accomplished 31-year-old, who had a passion for life and adventure. Melissa married her sweetheart, Sean Hughes, just a year prior to her death.
On that fateful morning of September 11 she was attending a meeting on the 101st floor of the North Tower when the first plane struck just six floors below her. Many people remember her for the harrowing voicemail she left for Sean minutes after the building was struck. In that voicemail she said, “Sean, it’s me. I just wanted to let you know I love you and I am stuck in this building in New York. A plane hit or a bomb went off – we don’t know, but there’s a lot of smoke and I just wanted you to know I love you always.”
Amongst the overwhelming tales of tragedy on September 11, Melissa’s final words resonated with a lot of people; thousands wrote on her memorial website. Her phone message to Sean was played on news casts numerous times in the weeks following 9/11. Each time I heard it I teared up.
In her voice I could sense so many of her emotions: fear, panic, bewilderment. But mostly, in her final minutes on earth, she wanted Sean to know that she loved him. I thought about her, and all of the people that died that day, who went off to work as they normally did. Kissing a spouse or child good-bye, grabbing a cup of coffee, making plans for the weekend ahead. And none of them came home. Plans and hopes and dreams were gone in an instant. Sean Hughes said that he and Melissa were excited about their future and talked about all the things that newlyweds do: moving to a new home, getting a dog, having children.
There were thousands of sad stories that day about love lost and children orphaned. The bank where I worked lost three of our employees that day. So why did Melissa’s story, above all the others, resonate with me? I think it was partially due to some life experiences we had in common. I had also made business trips from San Francisco to the North tower at the World Trade Center. I remember navigating its Byzantine elevators and escalators as I rushed to early morning meetings, just as Melissa must have done that morning. Melissa’s wedding photo also brought back memories for me; she and Sean were married in Napa, California, close to where I grew up, so I knew she also appreciated that beautiful part of the country. But it was more than the similar business trips and her wedding venue that stayed with me; it was her voicemail to Sean that was seared into my brain.
Her final words to Sean started me thinking about my own life. My husband had taken early retirement in 1996. By 2001 he was anxious to travel, spend time with our new grandson, and enjoy time with friends. I wanted to continue working. But I kept thinking about Melissa’s message. What if that had been me? Is that how I would want to die, without ever having enjoyed the life my husband and I had worked so hard to build?
The weeks following September 11 were frightening and incredibly busy for me. My division of the bank received bomb threats in our major office buildings around the country and we were constantly on alert. Of course, all of the threats were false, but that didn’t lessen the hysteria of my employees who were in those buildings. I understood – my office was on the top floor of our Los Angeles headquarters and I jumped every time I heard a plane or helicopter fly by. After a month or so, I began to hope that the turmoil would pass and that my life would get back to “normal”. But then I thought about Melissa. Life doesn’t get scripted. I knew that the odds of being killed in a terrorist attack might be low, but there were no guarantees against a car accident or a terminal illness.
So the first week of November, after the initial frenzy died down, I told my boss that I wanted to resign. We negotiated that I would stay until March, which I did. I have never regretted that decision and would not trade all of the memories and experiences I’ve had since then for any amount of successful projects or compensation I gave up.
The author Judith Viorst once wrote that it is the small moments in life that make it rich. Melissa made me realize that I needed to grab the small moments while I could; that sitting with my husband every morning, sipping coffee and watching the news, is a gift not to be squandered or go unappreciated.
So to Melissa Harrington Hughes: thank you. Someday I hope to get back to the new September 11 Memorial where I will touch the steel engraving of your name. And in the hollows of those letters, we will finally be connected.
2016 Update: This past March I went to New York with my niece and her two daughters. Visiting the National September 11 Memorial and Museum was the highlight of the trip. When I was planning our visit I read that it was preferable to purchase tickets in advance, so on February 24 I ordered ours from their website. On that same day I received a message that I had a new comment on my 2011 post about Melissa. I thought that was a coincidence – that maybe something that I had typed when researching the September 11 Memorial had caused an old comment to be recirculated. But it wasn’t an old comment – it was this: “I came across your blog after my son and I just prepared a required oral presentation for his English class about a life event of mine that had great impact. I think of Melissa almost every day – I was her best friend since childhood. She was a shining light and people were drawn to her. I miss her and the memories are still clear with detail. Thank you for seeing how her passion, love for life, and love for her husband and family was that shining light, even if it was her last words. She called her Dad and Mom and Sean from that burning building because she loved them deeply. She is well remembered and will never be forgotten.” I still get chills when I read this note and think about the timing of it. There are no coincidences in life, of that I am sure.
On March 30 I was able to fulfill the promise to myself that I would visit Melissa’s engraving at the Memorial. Her name is carved into Panel N-22 on the large reflecting pool that stands in the footprint of the former North Tower. I put my hand on her name and thanked her once again for all that she has meant in my life. May she rest in peace.
Note: On Friday, September 11, I will publish my piece about the September 11 Memorial and Museum.